Chamonix

Lake Iseo

The journey to Italy from Bled was short and easy. A couple of hours after the tyre change, we were across the border and progressing well. Our plan for the next few days was to explore Northern Italy, cross the Alps and visit Chamonix! It would be Katy’s first trip to the Alps so, as a surprise, I booked a dog-friendly chalet with views over Mt Blanc. I couldn’t wait to get there!

The route to Iseo

We arrived at Lake Iseo on the afternoon of Katy’s birthday and were just in time for sunset. It wasn’t long before we’d sourced a couple of cold Morettis and were relaxing for the evening.

View from our spot on Iseo

The lake itself is the fourth largest in Lombardy and has several medieval towns on its shoreline (including Iseo and Sarnico). To try and pack in as much as possible, we headed into town after dark and consumed excessive amounts of Italian food. 

As the sky turned orange 

Going under The Alps

With a couple of pizza bellies and a nasty hangover to boot, the next morning came around all too quickly. We reluctantly hit the road but felt our moods lift as we approached the Italian Alps. The drive was incredibly scenic and the weather was spot on. After a couple of hours surrounded by huge mountains, we were in high spirits and approaching the Mt. Blanc tunnel… 

On the road

The tunnel, which links France and Italy, stretches for 11.6 km and is the second deepest operational tunnel in the world. Passing through one way cost an extortionate 60€!
 
Despite the eye-watering price, exiting the tunnel into France was a glorious experience. As darkness turned to light we were greeted with a magnificent view. Pulling over to stretch our legs, we drank in the fresh alpine air. 

View from outside the tunnel

Arriving in Chamonix

Covering the remaining few kilometres to Chamonix took no time at all. We pulled up outside Katy’s surprise accommodation around lunchtime…

Our Alpine retreat 

The chalet was a dream. We were welcomed by the wonderful Patrick and Jeannie who helped us in and showed us to our room. The views of Mt. Blanc from the window were insane.
 

Room with a view

We decided to stay in Chamonix for a couple of days and immediately set about exploring…

Chamonix town centre

The Mer de Glace

To kick off, we headed straight to the The Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). It has the title of France’s largest glacier, measuring in at 7km long and 200m deep. To get there, we took the Train du Montenvers from Chamonix town centre.

Hanging out on the train

It’s a stunning journey from start to finish and is an attraction in itself! The funicular railway was built in 1903 and winds its way up the sides of the Aiguilles de Chamonix.

Katy and Betty enjoying the ride

Arriving at the top (1,913m), visitors are greeted with a jaw-dropping view.

View from the train station

Ever thirsty, Katy and I decided to grab a beer in the Restaurant Le Panoramique Mer de Glace – it offers a front row seat overlooking the glacier. When busy, the restaurant reserves the best seats for those eating. With only a small budget, Katy and I persuaded them to let us sit on the edge if we ordered one french onion soup between us. Mission accomplished.  

Beer with a view

Another take on our epic view

With a couple of beers down the chamber, we decided to head to the famous Ice Cave. Taking a small cable car, we descended from the high-altitude train station to the glacial valley below. From the cable car station, Katy, Betty and I then descended 430 steps down to the glacier. Because the glacier moves about 70m every year, a new cave has to be dug out each summer…

The cave is carved into the living glacier

One of the most memorable aspects of the whole experience was the markers showing where the glacier had been in previous years. In 1988, it took 3 steps to get down to the ice cave, it now takes over 430. 

Beer and Jazz

On our second day, we headed back into the town centre, walked along the glacial river and frequented some of Chamonix’s local bars (including Bar’d up, Monkey, Beer O’ Clock and O’Brynes). To top it off, that afternoon, our hosts invited us to a live music event! All in all, it was a thoroughly enjoyable weekend.
 

Katy enjoying beer

As is always the case, it was over in a flash and we soon had our attention turned back to the trip. Our next stop would be Lake Annecy as we continued on our mission to draw the letter E…

Onwards! Thank you Chamonix